On the 3rd April 2009 Tony Mace and myself returned to Sibari via Lamezia airport arriving at 10am and a faultless train journey to Sibari, first travelling on the 11am Rome Express to Paola where we changed for a local train that took us through a mountain tunnel to emerge at Constanza where we changed for our last local train to Sibari, taking us through an agricultural countryside. The train was like a bus, just two carriages and a diesel engine that had manual gearbox and three forward gears we arrived at Sibari at the scheduled time of 1400.
For the next 7 days under the guidance of Tony we worked tirelessly completing various works, the Yard completed our antifouling works with two coats of International Micron Extra, which has worked well for us in the Mediterranean, they also replaced the hull and shaft anodes. We were now ready for launching which was successfully completed on the 10th April ready for our planned departure on the 15th April, although that was not to be.
During this time we enjoyed a number of meals and local restaurants, walking about a mile to the nearest one called ‘Ciao Ciao’, the waitress Angelica adding her friendliness to the enjoyment of the meals, at weekends the restaurant lit its Pizza Oven and we shared a Pizza as a starter, after a few days we hired a Fiat 500 and teamed up with Paul and Helle, venturing further afield to a restaurant along the coast on the beach.
For the next two days Tony (Chief Engineer) completed the servicing of both engines and ancillary works with me acting as apprentice engineer.
In addition to the annual servicing Tony also completed the following works
| Engine room fire extinguisher checked
Navtex checked and rewired with correct coaxial cable 50 Ohmns and working first time since 2004
Cleaned and polished Hull and super structure with A Glaze and Sealant Other Works continued
Resealed the underneath of rubbing strake from Bow to midships
Reseated Pulpit supports with Sikoflex and made good damage and cracking with Gelcoat. Star crazing repaired starboard side of front cabin
Striped bathing platform cleaned stainless steel, rub down timber struts and applied 8 coats of teak oil and reassembled
Webasto heater not functioning, checked glo plug, cleaned, checked electrical connections and reassembled now working.
Rub downed anchor winch plinth, applied sikoflex top and bottom and to anchor roller and apply six coats of teak oil to plinth
Cleaned all stainless steel
Cutlass and Rudder bearings checked
Installed missing grub screws in Wipers, wiper blades replaced
Zips in awning greased with Vaseline
Tidy up wiring in Radio cupboard
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On the 13th April, we used our hired Fiat 500 to make the 2 hour drive across the mountains to Lamezia airport where we arrived in times for Valerie’s Ryanair flight from Stansted which duly arrived at 10am. We then went to join the rest of the Sibari team for an Easter Celabratory Lunch
We then made our way back to Sibari to prepare for our departure. Unfortunately the Canal was still waiting to be dredged and we spent 8 days waiting for information
Skippers Meeting at Sibari
With no sign of the Canal opening and Tony’s flight to Corfu just over a week away, we made the decision to take the train to Brindisi and the overnight ferry to Corfu, we left Sibari Marina at 10am on Friday 24th April and caught the 12 Noon train to Taranto and the 2pm train to Brindisi where we arrived at 3.30pm, as usual the Italian trains ran to schedule after paying 30 Euro’s for us three to get to Brindisi, the taxi fare was another 30 Euro’s for the 2 mile trip from the Station to the Port!
We arrived well in time for our booked tickets on the Endeavour ferry from Brindisi to Corfu and looked forward to good nights sleep in our cabin. As arranged we picked up the tickets at the ferry office and at 6pm we were called to get on the ferry, I noticed that the board on the gangway announced that the ferry was going to Ingomonitsa and Patras, so as our tickets said Corfu, I asked why it was not on the sign, it seems at the last minute the ferry Company had decided that it would bypass Corfu. We were assured that the company would provide tickets and a transfer for the Igomonitsa to Corfu Ferry, great but that meant getting up at 1am instead of 4am. We continued to complain on board and the Purser offered us a free meal. To add insult to misery, some Italian students decided to have an all night party in the cabin next to us!
We arrived on Corfu at 5am and as arranged Sidari Rent a Car had a car waiting for us at the Port. At about 9am we arrived with Nikos and Elpida who welcomed us to our pre booked accommodation in St Ioanis near Sidari. Tony went straight to bed and slept till the afternoon.
During the following week we enjoyed showing Tony around the Island.
Thats me at Agios Georgis nearly 60!
The Good Looking One is Tony
Here we see the Pretty One at Agios Gordis
We also introduced Tony to our friends Vasilius and Evenola Comminos, Elene, Thanasis and their partners and family, we had a number of very enjoyable evenings with them all.
The 2nd of May and Tony’s flight home came very quick and we were very grateful to him for all the help he gave Us in preparing Lace for the coming year
On the following Monday we received an email to say that the Canal may open towards the end of the week, so we made plans to catch the 10.30pm Wednesday 6th May night ferry to Bari. We spent much of our remaining time lazing around the pool at the three brothers hotel in Sidari, I enjoyed a swim each day and the weather was glorious
The Ventouris Ferry to Bari was a happier experience except it arrived in Corfu an hour late and we were unable to disembark until 0945 the next morning knowing our train left at 1015, for just 15 euro’s our taxi got us to the station with 5 minutes to spare after buying tickets. We arrived back in Sibari at 2pm and our German friend Peter was waiting to take us back to the Marina.
On arrival we found that work had stopped on the Canal because the crane driver was sick. He worked for 2 hours on the Friday but did a full day the following Monday and each day therafter.
NortLicht preparing to leave Sibari
We eventually were given clearance to leave at 1735 on Thursday 14th May, we were the first boat to leave and we followed Guytano in the Yards work boat who acted as pilot. That evening Hartmut and Gertrude in Nortlicht and Keith and Anne in Greta were among the escapee’s. When we were 3 miles from Sibari, Hartmut radioed to say he had problems with his water pump, we endeavoured to contact Paul and Helle on Elida 1 and discovered that Greta had towed Nortlicht into Cogliano. We arrived off Capo Trionto at 1935, as we went around the point conditions started to worsen and we experienced winds up to 20 knots, we approached Cariati as darkness fell. The entrance to Cariati at night is best described as confusing and we were pleased to find Alan and Ann on Saiorse a converted Scottish fishing boat waiting to take ropes. We moored at 21.09.
For the record Sibari Marina 39° 45’•1N 016°29’•80E is a large yard with capacity for 300 boats ashore on hard standing, adequate cradles are available. Water and electricity provided throughout yard area. It is possible to over-winter afloat but there are few facilities at the Marina out of season. The yard allows you to work on your own boat and live on board when on the hard. Lay-up charges based on 7 month period, but marina appears to be open to some negotiation, for slightly shorter periods. A few live-aboards over winter here, but most travel home, the Marina provides a free mini-bus service to Sibari Tuesday and Fridays out of season. Bus leaves for Sibari 10:00 and returns about an hour later when all shopping done. Sibari has good Conad supermarket and has good bus and train connections, the latter giving access to Naples, Rome, Ancona, Bologna, Lamezia and Bari for budget airlines. The rail trip to Lamezia and Bari takes 3 hours and costs 11 and 13 euro’s (2009) respectively. The marina can organise car hire with Europcar small car in the region of 27 euro’s a day, Auchant supermarket about 10km away direction Regio Calabria.
Although winter rates are attractive, as already outlined a problem with this marina is that it is accessed via a canal that needs regular dredging particularly at the start of the season. Do not expect to enter out of season, the responsibility is not the Marina’s but the local council with the Capitainerie at the nearest port having responsibility to decide whether canal and entrance is navigable. There may also be other political factors. Over the years there has been problems, in 2009 storms in April and lack of availability of equipment have delayed the opening, this year the opening , we waited from the 10th April and eventually escaped on the 14th May. In October 2008 we found 2 metres at the channel entrance and 1.8 metres in the canal, although they expect to provide at least 2 metres.
Cariati is 25 miles south of Sibari and is a relatively new harbour with Marina style pontoons now laid and due to open officially in June 2009. When we visited in May it appeared that the Marina and on shore boat storage area would be secure. The yard already provided a 100 ton travel boat lift, the harbour area had a minimum of 2 metres and mostly 3 metres. The Historic hilltop Village was attractive and there are resturants close to the harbour and a MD Discount Store within 250 metres. A useful contact in the village is an American born Cariati and district expert
The Church at Cariati
No Prizes for whom the Statue is
On the day after our arrival at Cariati the Sailing Yachts and ex prisoners of Sibari started to arrive, first was Paul and Helle on ‘Elida 1’, then we got a call to tow in Keith and Anne on ‘Greta’ suffering a failed water pump, this was followed by a call from John and Denise on ‘Out of the Blue’, Paul was keen to help tow in the Halberg Rassy 39 Yacht with a fouled propeller.
Here is Harmut and Gertrude from Nortlicht
The following night we all gathered and were joined by Alan and Anne on Scottish Fishing Boat ‘Saiorse’ for a celebratory dinner at a local restaurant.
John (fellow CA Member) saluting and Denise on the bow of ‘Out of the Blue’ as they leave Cariati.
Paul and Helle on ‘Elida 1’ leaving Cariati having sailed from Australia
Harmut and Gertrude in Norlicht their Steel Sailing Boat leaving Cariati
The forecast for Monday 18th May was good so we all set off, Saiorse and ourselves for St Maria di Leuca and the other three boats for Crotone. We left harbour one hour after Saiorse at 0715 and soon experienced NE winds on the beam of around 19 knots.
Cariati from the Sea
In improving conditions we sighted Saiorse about 4 miles ahead at 11am, At 1pm having covered 50 miles we were abeam to Saiorse
They advised us they were having to steer manually as their autopilot was not working. We arrived at St Maria di Leuca at 1600 in calm conditions having covered 77.1 miles crossing the Gulf of Taranto.
Approaching St Maria Di Leuca
Harbour: Santa Maria di Leuca 39° 47’·6N 018° 21’·5E We refueled and took on water at the Fuel station, just as we completed Saiorse entered harbour. We had been advised that their were free transito berths on the inside wall of the breakwater next to the fishing boats (no water or electricity) and that the harbour master allows one free night after which he charges the same as the marinas. No sooner had we tied up than the Guardia Costeria arrived to advise us that the dock was now permanently closed and that we must berth at the Porto Turistico.
Having been advised that the outside pontoon close to the entrance were vulnerable to swell, we negotiated berths adjacent to the fuel berth. The daily rate for 11m was 40 euro’s and 20 metres 70 euro’s.
Alan and Anne joining us for a drink on the aft deck of Lace
Once again we waited for the right conditions for our crossing to Corfu. Three days later the forecast looked OK and this was confirmed by Thanasis on Corfu , so Saiorse left at 0620 on the 21st May
We left at 0650, conditions were calm until we cleared the coast and entered the Otranto Channel, when the NE wind gradually increased to 20 knots and the waves to 2 metres, this lasted for the first 20 miles and at 9am Italian time it started to decrease.
A ship passed ahead of us at 0930
and we sighted Saiorse ahead well to starboard, by 10am conditions were much better with waves only about ½ metre.
At 1125 a ship passed astern to us and we were now ahead of Saiorse. At 1300 we sighted the Greek Island of Othoni and hoisted our Greek courtesy flag. We arrived at Othoni at 1400 in calm conditions and changed course for the Island of Erikoussa on arrival we radioed Saiorse to say the jetty was empty.
We changed course for Cape Drastis and Corfu, off Drastis we changed course for Astrakeri and phoned Thanasis of our ETA.
On our arrival at Astrakeri at 1700 Thanasis and Vasilius were waiting to help us in through the narrow dredged channel and to moor. The entrance channel is between the rowing boat and the pontoon, good job it was calm
Thanasis (on Left with friend on right) were busy emptying their nets
Vasilus and his brother Spiros
Vasilus filleted some Cuttle Fish for our tea, altogether a good welcome to Corfu.
The following Evening Vasilius, Evenola and Christina came on board for refreshments.
Thanasis with his Sword Fish caught the night before we left Astakeri
This is Vasilius and Thanasis fishing boat Agios Stephanos. We enjoyed 2 days at Astrakeri in the fishing harbour, Vasilius took me to get a new starting battery for the Starboard Engine. We set off for Kassiopi at 14.15 and arrived in good conditions at 1515, but there was no where suitable to moor so we headed for Ayios Stephanos, the anchorage was crowded but we successfully anchored, lowered the dinghy and headed for Taverna Galini, they told us to keep an eye for a space on their jetty, as the boat moored was due to leave, within 15 minutes we were moored on the jetty.
We enjoyed a meal at Taverna Galini and were even able to plug in for electricity, unfortunately a bar has opened with disco music till 2am, bar music till 3pm and loud voices till 4am, anyway we enjoyed full English breakfast at the taverna next morning.
We left Ayios Stephanos at 1045 in flat calm and called into Kouloura, we anchored and reversed in order to dig in anchor and ran straight over our dinghy line, my stupid deed for the day, it took me over an hour in the water to clear my port screw, by that time my divers knife was blunt and a small amount of rope was still around the shaft behind the cutting discs, and I was tired. It was then that I noticed that the Australian yacht moored nearby had a man in the water in a wet suit, after a brief conversation he came to my rescue and removed final piece of offending rope.
We then made for Agni where we know there are three good tavernas, on arrival we shortened the dinghy line and successfully anchored and made for Taverna Toula’s jetty, we enjoyed a meal of Mussels and chips suitably refreshed we headed for Gouvia at 1630 taking the longer route around the shore, we arrived at Gouvia , refuelled, asked for a berth and were moored up by 1800. We spotted Saiorse and went to say hello, which was answered with would you like a cold beer, great!
The following day we reported to the port police to officially book into Greece, were given a note and told we need to go to Corfu Town and pay 29.35 euros pus 0.88 cents and bring the recipt back to the Port Police. We caught the bus to corfu Town found the Tax office and eventually the right section to make the payment, armed with our receipts we presented ourselves to the Port police to be told he had done his quota of travel logs for the day and we should come back in the morning! Which we did and we now after a further payment of 15 Euros are the proud owners of a Greek Travel log, which needs to be stamped when we arrive and depart from a Greek Port together with our Crew list which is also duly signed dated and stamped.
On the night of the 28th May we had a thunderstorm while in Gouvia Marina with lightning striking a tree and setting it alight just 200 yards from where we were moored, the birds were killed by shock and the tree looks decidely unhappy. The Fire Brigade attended but locals had put out the fire with hand extinguishers.
On the 29th May at 10.10 we left Gouvia in company with Saiorse en route to Lakka on the Island of Paxos.
TUI Cruise Ship Thomson Celebration moored at Corfu Town New Port
Sea Front Corfu Town near New Port
The Yacht Club in front of the Fort at Corfu Town
We passed the Fort at Corfu Town at 11.05,
Ferry from Igominitsa approaching Corfu Town
Lefkimmi Point at 12.57 and Kavos at 14.00, from there Lakka is just 7 miles from the Island of Corfu. We arrived in the beautiful bay of Lakka on Paxos at 15.10.
Alan and Anne on Saiorse moored near the entrance and we tied up at the Town Quay, we spent the afternoon swimming in the bay, during the afternoon of the 29th May the wind came up and I rang Alan to see if he needed any help moving into the shelter of the bay, he said he was happy where he was but would ring us if he needed help. At around 6pm Alan rang asking for help, I went out on our RIB and helped them move into the bay. Alan said he did not feel well and would be resting aborad rather than come ashore, he confirmed he did not need a doctor.
At around 2am on the 30th May Anne rang us to say she thought Alan had died, I informed the Port Police and Local Doctor with help from Louise and Petra at the Harbour Lights bar. The officials attended and arranged a Water Taxi to Saiorse, confirming that Alan had died of possibly a heart attack, the next morning with help from the British Consulate, Alan’s body was transported to Corfu and onwards to his family in England. The Local Officials and community of Lakka were very supportive.
On the 31st May we left Lakka at 10.52 en route to Gaios partly to make a statement to the Port Police based there, who had attended the previous night. We arrived in Gaios at 11.55.
We spent 2 days at Gaios during thast time filling up with water from Paxos Water services 00306974484422 and recovering from our experience, on the 3rd June we returned to Lakka at 10.30 arriving on the town quay at 1120.
Lace moored on the Town quay at Lakka on the Island of Paxos
The Entrance to Lakka from the Beach
From the Beach towards the breakwater
South East Corner of Lakka
We spent 4 days enjoying Lakka and left for our return trip to Corfu at 1100 on the 7th June, we met the Corfu to Lakka ferry at 1104
We arrived off Kavos at 1200, Lefkimmi at 12.52, This private Ship passed us at 1337 in sight of Corfu Town, we arrived Corfu Town at 1416 and Gouvia Marina at 1500.
The next week was spent moored at Gouvia, Val’s Sister Anne joined us and we visited our friends on Corfu and celebrating my 60th Birthday.
Alexion Palace Corfu
Is that Val or Anne?
On my Birthday we visited The Palace near Benetes
David greek Birthday Party at Karosades Corfu
We flew back to the UK on the 16th June and returned to Corfu on the 8th August 2009
We returned to Corfu with Valeries Grand Son Liam on the 8th August and spent the first 6 days preparing Lace and simming in the Pool at Gouvia Marina,
Gouvia Marina from Lace
Lace at Gouvia
That’s the other side
On the 12th August in the Evening we had a thunderstorm, Laim caught this picture
On the 14th August at 10.30 we sailed to Lakka on Paxos passing Corfu Town at 1120 and once again the Tui Cruise Liner Thomson Celebration was in port,
Liam just checking to make sure the tender still being towed
It’s calm for Liam’s fist voyage on Lace and the tender is still there, that’s Corfu Town disappearing in the background to the left
We passed Lefkimmi Point at 1252, Kavos at 1352 arriving at Lakka at 1448, here we are tied up at the Quay
Lace tied up in front of the Harbour Lights Bar
Liam finds out there is always someone with a bigger one
After 4 great days at Lakka we prepare to sail around Paxos to Megonissi
A goodbye to Anne on Saiorse
We leave Lakka at 1115 on the 18th August chased by a trip boat, I think its Liam’s fan club
At 1123 we pass Lakka lighthouse at the start of our trip down the west coast of Paxos
Approaching the Blue Cave as a trip boat comes through the passage at 1204
Its got bigger
The Blue Cave Paxos
The Rock that guards the bue cave
Approaching Mongonisi at 1244
We arrived at Mongonissi at 1245 on the 18th August and spent 3 days enjoying Sun and Sand
On the 21st August at 1245 we left to make the 2 mile trip to Gaois for shopping and to fill up with water passing this Yacht on the way
Gaois was busy with trip boats
Liam caught a fish!
The Quay is pretty, but one night was enough, the Italians were still here in force and very loud until 4am
We left Gaois at 1126 on the 22nd August heading for Lakka where we arrived at 1210, we spent 5 days in the company of Derek and Thea on Pilgrim 4 and Anne on Saiorse and once again swimming from the local beach
On the 25th August we went out by dinghy to Derek & Thea and we enjoyed dinner on board Pilgrim 4 at anchor
On the 26th August we all enjoyed a barbecue on Lace and afterwards Greek Dancing at Harbour Lights
Derek was the only one brave enough to join in
Derek’s got the idea
The Gang at Harbour Lights Lakka
On the 27th August at 1145 we said goodbye to Anne, Derek and Thea to head for Loggos
We arrived at Loggos at 1210, its only 2 miles and anchored in the bay and went ashore that evening for a meal
Fisherman at Loggos
The Quay at Loggos
Our Neighbour at anchor
Hotel Boat at Loggos
Valerie swimming off the back of Lace
Val and Liam
At 1050 we headed for Gaois passing this ferry to Corfu, we arrived 1115 at Gaois to buy provisions and fill up with water and left for Mongonissi at 1250
For the next 10 days we used Mongonissi as our base to do a circuit of Antipaxos and swim in the bay at Voutoumi on AntiPaxos which is about 5 miles from Mongonissi. We also took the boat twice to Gaois to fill up with water and and visit the shops. Mongonissi is a pretty bay with sandy beach, Taverna with quay providing electricity for 10 euros a day
Mongonissi
Mongonissi
Voutoumi bay Antipaxos rated to be one of the prettiest beaches in the Med
Voutoumi bay Antipaxos
Voutoumi bay Antipaxos
Voutoumi bay Antipaxos
Voutoumi bay Antipaxos