During the Winter Lace had a refit and engine service thanks to Scott Weston and his team, if your visiting Alcudia and need an Engineer he is your man his contact details are:
Scott Weston Paseo Maritimo 1, Local 15, Port d’Alcudia, 07400 Mallorca.
Phone 0034 647788068
We started looking for the entrance to Puerto De Tamarinda (Cala Bosch) which we sighted at 1120. We expected a canal type entrance of about 7 metres but not the inviting rocks and cross sea at the entrance, needless to say our entrance was interesting!
The Marina was just coming to life after the winter and the port staff had the day off, after all it was Sunday.
The following morning we left the Marina also known as Cala Bosch at 0636 and headed for Mahon passing some pretty Cala’s on the way including Cala de Sant Llorenc and Cala en Porter, which we later visited by car.
At 09.23 we were approaching Isla Del Aire giving the rocks off of Cala Biniparatx a wide berth. As we rounded the headland we caught sight of the buoys marking the entrance channel to Mahon.
As we navigated into Mahon we passed the ferry Triumph at 09.15 on the 29th April.
We moored at a vacant berth on the town quay which turned out to be private, but gave me the opportunity of visiting the offices of the Club Maritimo where I secured an alongside berth for 5 days.
Ciudadela
Ciudadela looking out to sea
We loved Ciudadela and just had to share it with you
Valerie was up early on the 30th april and caught this ferry entering Mahon, taken from the aft deck of Lace
Yes it still is in the water
Here comes the Triumph back
We are busy and now, the sailing cruise ship Sea Cloud II, the previous evening we had met a german couple celebrating their 50 Something wedding anniversary who had been on a cruise to Sardinia and Italy on this ship
Cala En Porter
Lace moored alongside at Mahon, the Club Maritimo
We hired a car and visited Ciudadela, Fornells, Cala En Porter, on the 2nd May we picked up my Son Paul and his partner Amy from Mahon airport and we readied Lace for the 200 mile crossing to Sardinia.
Having watched the weather for a week we decided to commence our crossing on the afternoon of the 3rd May 2008.
We slipped our mooring at 13.45 and headed for the exit to Mahon, the forecast was NE force 2-3 with waves 0.5m to 1m improving until we got clear of Menorca they were mostly 1m. Our course was 91 degrees all the way to Sardinia with no obstacles with sea depths of up to 2500 metres
Menorca starting to disappear into the mist about 20 miles off of Mahon Menorca at 1445 by the way the camera time was now on Central European time
21miles out of Menorca position 39:51:82N 004:42:08E we passed within a mile of the Motor Ship UTE ULTMANN, the last ship we would actually see until we were in sight of Sardinia.
Our next sighting was 42 miles from Menorca by radar at 18.00 of a Ship 15.08 miles away at a bearing of 266 degrees to our position 39:51:63N 005:09:40E
The Sun Setting at 2031 out of sight of land
At 22.00 we had travelled 67 miles the radar confirmed a ship 6.05 miles at a bearing of 7 degrees to our position 39:51:32N 005:42:26E we could just make out a white light and assumed it might be a Yacht heading for the Balearics. It was pitch black with no moon and we were navigating mainly by radar and making around 8.5 knots.
At 22.30 Paul and Amy took over the helm and I enjoyed 4.5 hours sleep although I had a habit of coming up to check at almost hourly intervals.
When I took back the helm at 3pm no ships had been sighted and we had now covered 108 miles of our 200 mile journey.
At 5pm Valerie joined me at the Helm which was very welcome
At 0628 still out os sight of land the sun rose again
it was not until 0700hrs on the 4th May that we sighted our next ship about 8.27 miles on a bearing of 126 degrees to our position at 39:50::42N 007:24:00E we had travelled 143 miles
Then suddenly on the starboard side was a school of dolphins this one nearly escaped the camera at 9.25 on the 4th May 2008
At 10.00 we had made 169 miles and we got our first sight of Sardinia, the closer we got to Sardinia the calmer the sea.
We had carried 87 litres in three cans as a reserve and at 11.51 I decided to add this fuel to our tanks to avoid running at less than a quarter full.
At 1249 we passed Capo San Marco
At 1256 we entered the Bay of Otranto and arrived at Torre Grande our port of destination at 13.35. The overall distance was 199 miles and we used 522 litres of our tank capacity of 726 litres.
We hired a car for 3 days and drove the coast road to Alghero and the Interior of Sardinia.
Torre Grande Marina at sunset
We took Paul and Amy to Cagliari to catch their flight to Luton on the 7th May.
The 8th May saw an increase in wind speeds and although we refueled and were ready to leave, the waves at the port entrance suggested a longer stay was the order. The next day forecast suggested winds of up to 35 knots and 3 metre seas, allowing for the sea to calm after the blow it looks like we will be here until 12th May
On the 12th May we left Torre Grande at 0755 and reached Capo Frasca at 0910 which marks the southern entrance to the Bay of Oristano. We were escorted by a military launch to take us out of a military zone they indicated the course they wanted us to take and we soon found out why at 0943 three Italian air force jets arrived and gave us a free air display.
We arrived off Porto Buggerru at 1216 having covered 33 miles as sea conditions were good we continued our journey heading for Portoscuso passing this island at 1244
We approached the Isle De Meli at 1345, the chart indicateda 5 metre deep inner channel abour ½ mile wide, we found a fish farm barring our way and a minefield of fishing pot flags, we changed course and went round the island.
Giving the line of sharp rocks with breaking surf a wide berth. We arrived safely in Portoscuso at 1415 having covered 48 miles.
Portoscuso was a marina with finger pontoons so we berthed alongside we arrived in the middle of a festival. That evening we watched a flotilla take their Patron Saint for a trip to sea and back.
Our Refurbished RIB complete with Centre Consul and remotes.
The next day the festival continued and we enjoyed walking around the village soaking up the atmosphere.
That evening a flotilla of about 30 boats all dressed with flags went on a sea procession. Here they are returning with an efigy of their Patron Saint Santa Maria in a boat aptly named
Part of the following Flotilla
The Patron Saint being carried back to the Village Church
Many of the villagers were in local costume
We enjoyed our evening meal mixing with the locals in a large restuarant
The Evening finished with a magnificent firework display, for which we had a front row seat on board Lace.
On the morning of the 14th May we did a short hop across to the Island San Pietro to the harbour of Calorforte, this ferry passed us on the way.
This one greeted us just as we were arriving
We enjoyed a walk around the town and seeing flamingo’s on the Salt pans
We also found we were moored alongside Christian and Suchitra from Switzerland who we met almost exactly a year ago when we were moored alongside them in St Eulalia in Ibiza
Their Motor Sailor ‘Peakoo’
When Chris left they were replaced by Steve and Fiona on board their Motor Sailor ‘Katore’ we enjoyed two evenings in their company and hope we meet them again in our travels.
On the 16th May, David had his first swim in the Med this year, it was lovely. The town of Calorforte was very interesting and we were able to stock up easily as there was a large new supermarket about 200 yards from Marina Safredi where we were berthed not mentioned in the pilot
.
With a good forecast at 0740 on the 18th May we slipped our mooring lines and headed for the San Pietro Channel in between ferry’s, it was flat calm.
We arrived off isle de Toro and entered a military zone again, as we approached Cape Teulada at 10.30 we spotted a Navy Launch headed our way, he duly inpected us and with a cheery wave went on his way.
We rounded Cape Teulada at 11.00 and was once again approached by the Navy Launch who expertly shepherded out to sea, we soon found out why.
As we cleared the Cape, we spotted three helicopters, who had taken off from one of two aircraft carriers in the Bay of Teulada. Having covered a respectful distance out to sea, I slowly made a course for the infamous Capo Spartivents. In was then that we sighted a Navy Frigate coming from that direction overflown by an air force jet. What a lot of fun.
We duly arrived at Capo Spartivents at 12.09 and true to form the sea became more lively but no real wind, pleasantly it was a following sea.
At 1236 we were overflown by this military helicopter
As we approached our next Cape, Capo de Paula at 13.45 I was beginning to get tired of this more lively sea, when the wind went westerly and flattened the sea.
Our trip across the Bay of Cagliari to the ‘Marina di Capitain was quite leisurely we thought we were going to have to change course when this ship appeared on our radar coming straight for us but at 1514 we safely passed by some distance. we arrived at Marina di Capitan at 16.00 having completed 67 nautical miles.
At the Marina di Capitain we refueled and was pleased to note that our fuel consumption was back down to 14 litres an hour from 22. At Italian diesel prices of 1.50 Euros a litre that was very welcome. David had another swim
The next day the 19th May we left at 0740 headed for Porto Corrallo
We passed these fisherrmen at 0754
We arrived off Villamius at 0903 and sighted dolphins swimming lazily as we approached the inner channel of the Isla Cavoli at Capo Carbonara, the South East Cape of Sardinia sea, if you look closely at the picture you can just make out a fin of a dolphin in the right top corner.
We entered the Capo Carbonera Marine Reserve giving the Secca dei Berni rock a wide berth at 0934 we headed up the inner channel of Isla Sepentara at 0950 still flat calm. We arrived off Capo Ferrato where a fishing boat was trawling at 1110 and Porto Corrallo at 1213 having covered the 36.3nm.
Porto Corrallo is a welcome port half way to Arbatax and as thunder storm was forecast for this afternoon, very welcome. The only infrastructure outside the port was a campsite that had not yet opened and a restaurant that we eat in that evening. Since the Italian Pilot was issued the port had installed a fuel facility that was about it. The Capitan’s office consisted of a wooden hut but no Capitan so we put an envelope through a crack in the door containing what we thought our mooring fee to be.
The rain storm duly arrived but although the barometer was down to 995 the forecast suggested the next morning would be westerly off the land at 15 knots with a northerly swell of up to a metre, with winds increasing in the afternoon, so as we were going north we prepared to leave the following morning at 0703 having first checked the sea conditions we got underway.
As we left Porto Carrollo the conditions were as forecast just better we arrived off Capo Sperracavallo at 0910, the winds now gusted at 15 knots but were North Westerly so we put our back covers up to enclose the aft Deck helm position and we were snug as a rug.
We arrived at Arbartax at 1059 having covered 33.1nm. The Pilot failed to mention that the Town facilities were cut off from the Marina by a railway line which you had to walk around we found a direct route climbing walls! Valerie said what are you going to get me to do next? This photo taken the next day shows the marina and town
We left Arbartax at 0720 on the 22nd May heading for Capo di Monte Santu where we arrived at 0832
The next headland was 31 miles ahead at Capo Comino, here we are approaching Capo Comino at 1129. When we arrived at the Capo we passed a fishing boat at 1214 and headed towards La Caletta.
No sooner had we entered port and the wind started gusting at 20 knots, later that day a Motor Sailing Yacht ‘Distant Drums’ tied up alongside, Peter and his crew of two had sailed from Tunisa en route to Grand Motte in France. We first met Peter at Estepona and then Gibraltar in 2006.
The next morning ‘Distant Drums’ slipped its moorings at 0558 en route for Grand Motte France, our first port in the Mediterranean after leaving the River Rhone and Port St louis in 2005
We left La Caletta at 0718 heading towards the Ti Dei Pedromi Rocks.
We arrived off this hilltop village at 0745 and the Ti Dei Pedromi Rocks at 0800 as it was calm conditions we negotiated the inner channel registering a minimum depth of 4.5 meter’s.
Our next waypoint was Capo Coda Cavallo, at 0906 the Isola Molaro dominated by the Isola Tavolara took up the seascape.
We arrived at the channel at 0908 having covered 15.5 miles and entered the Nature Reserve as we rounded the Cape dominated by the Isola Tavolara.
We followed the channel at 0918 between Sardinia and the Isola Molara and the Isola Tavolara, the scenary as you can see was stunning.
The Isola Tavolara.
We sighted the wreck off Isola Piana at 0943
The American Base on the Eastern end of Isola Tavolara.
We changed course and entered the Bay of Olbia at Capo Ceraso and headed across thje shipping lanes for Capo Figaro at this point we made radio contact with Distant Drums who were further out to sea.
We arrived at Capo Figaro at 1030 and headed for Isolotto Mortoriotto next part of the nature reserve making sure not to enter the Non Navigation Zone although a sailing Yacht came in the opposite direction right through the middle!!
We headed for Porto Cervo via the Passo Del Galera the pilot said it was safe to use during daylight and calm conditions which we had. It was at this point that we said goodbye by radio to Distant Drums who we had unknowingly overtaken by using the inner passages, we wished them Bon Voyage.
Our successful navigation of of the Passeo del Galera was interesting to say the least, I am not sure I would have wanted to do it without the benefit of a chart plotter.
We entered Porto Cervo at 1151 and refueled at 1.56 a litre! A Marinero with a high powered RIB helped us moor he was quite an acrobat and did everything at high speed. Our mooring fees including garbage, electricity and water were a mere 47.26 euros, we had been paying 11 to 16 euros and Porto Cervo didn’t have a working wifi! Anyway at least we can say we have been there!
Well that was Porto Cervo I was left wondering what all the fuss was about, we did not meet a cruising boat while we were there!!
We left Porto Cervo the next morning at 1006 taking care to clear the Secco del Cervo at the entrance and at 1025 set course for the Brice Channel.
We were able to navigate the Brice Channel as we once again had calm conditions
As we approached Caop Trimonte the estate agent noticed this bit of real estate on its own island.
We rounded Capo Trimonte and arrived at Cannigione at 1112. The Port is still undergioing extensive improvement a process that has been ongoing since 2005, but work was going on in earnest. We enjoyed the realness of Cannigionne after Porto Cervo.
We were originally staying for two days but a storm which reached winds of 45 knots in the harbour kept us tied up securely to the pontoon for two more days.
The bad weather just mean’t we had more time to enjoy company, this was the crew of a charter boat moored next to us and good fun they were too.
We thought this member of the charter crew had found his brother
With further bad weather forecast we made a dash for Palau at 0735 on the 28th May arriving there in almost perfect conditions at 0830, with the forecast we booked for 2 nights,on the following day we had heavy rain and thunderstorms.
On the 30th May we were keen to make a move and the forecast suggested the conditions would improve as the day progressed, so we set off for St Teresa di Gallura some 11 miles away. As soon as we reached open sea we were faced with winds on the nose varying from force 4-5, we settled down to a steady 6 knots and Lace handled the oncoming waves well. We reached Punta Marmorata at 1239 having covered just 8.5nm and turned to go west towards Saint Teresa di Gallura and now the sea was on our starboard beam and we were rolling a little, but we only had 3nm to go. As soon as we entered the St Teresa inlet we enjoyed the shelter and arrived at 1315.
There were no shops in the Harbour/Marina area and the pilot did not mention that if you walk up the Hill from the Ferry Terminal there is a reasonable size supermarket, we found it by a more indirect route.
The next day the 31st May had a good forecast so we left at 0745 ahead of the 0800 Ferry to Boniface, Corsica. The Ferry emerged just as we were passing the maritime border between Italy and France, we changed courtesy flags and set the Ferry as a target on our Raymarine Radar using the MARPA facility. I soon had speed, course etc for the Ferry. At first we thought it would overtake us as she was shadowing us on our starboard.
My radar soon confirmed that she was reducing speed to allow us to enter Boniface ahead of her.
We entered Bonifacio at 0856
As we contined down the entrance to Boniface at my radar alarm cautioned of a dangerous target astern of us. The Ferry was about to do a 180 degree turn to go astern to her berth.
After Italy, Boniface France was a distinct contrast with many familiar foods, once again available
At 0735 on the 2nd June we headed out of Bonifacio towards Capo Pertusato where we arrived at 0806 taking the channel between Punta Sperono and ile Ratino arriving at the course change as indicated in the pilot to 48 degrees at 0833, I was pleased to have the comfort of the chart plotter.
Having cleared shallow water we changed course back to 25 degrees and arrived at Roche de Chiappino at 10.30 before entering the channel for Port Vecchio arriving at 1110 having covered 28 miles.
This Ferry was also berthed at Porto Vechio when we left on the 3rd June at 10.55.
As you can see we were wanting to take advantage of continuing good weather to cover the 20 miles to Solenzara where we arrived at 1312.
It was so calm it was safe to pass close to this rock which we did at 1150
The Forecast held good and we set off for Porto Taverna at 1014
As we leave Solenzara the scenary is breathtaking except for the dark clouds over the mountains, although the weather at sea was good.
We went past The Foce Di Tavignano at 1235 going out to sea to avoid the military zone, local boats were well inshore so we made a course for Baghera where we arrived at 1330. This Holiday Village was a fvourite holiday haunt of my parents in the 70’s.
We arrived at Porto Taverna at 1423 covering a distance of 35.5 miles.
We were keen to arrive at Bastia with time to tidy the boat prior to picking Tony Mace our “Chief Engineer “ up from the airport on the 8th June. We left Porto Taverna at 0942 on the 5th June and at 1034 passed this Dome which we understand houses an Areo RC Beacon No. 1069 Bastia
With just 25 miles to cover we arrived off Bastia at 1234.
They have big boats at Bastia, the town quay was next door!
We were pleased to get onto the Town Quay at Vieux Port, we enjoyed our stay soaking up the atmosphere of the harbour and surrounding Town and without our knowledge an unkown passenager.
On the 8th July we took a taxi to Bastia airport which was further than we thought costing 55 Euro’s each way, but as it turned out was worth every penny. Having Tony safely duly arrived, we returned to the Vieux Port.
With Tony on board we went sight seeing, we found this submarine from WW2 above the harbour, its main purpose for the free French Navy was to land and collect agents on Corsica which was not free.
That night we found this delightful Auberge on a square which provided good fare and an entertaining owner, well we think she was the owner.
Vieux Port Bastia by Night
With “Chief Engineer” safely onboard we set sail the next day on a short trip in perfect conditions to Macinaggio just 18 miles away, we left at 1020 safely arriving at 1210, tying up at the fuel berth. It was closed till 2pm so we enjoyed a leisurely lunch. We refueled and prepared to start up to moor, Port Engine started but the starboard engine just went Clunk! I thought a job for the “Chief Engineer” he will soon get us underway. After preliminary investigation we decided to berth on one engine, having done so Tony continued to eliminate possibilities and announced that No 6 bore appeared to have a problem and that at least the head will need to come off.
We decided that “we” would make a start next morning and I arranged for the local Volvo Agent to come on board. To my dismay he spoke no English, it was at that point that the Lady Capitainerie came to our rescue speaking her native French and very good English, she agreed to be at the meeting at 2pm.
To add to the fun we discovered what we thought was a resident Lizard who liked fruit, we later discovered it was a mouse that we think came on board at Bastia, the mouse has now departed!!
In the meantime Tony discovered we had a failed injector sleeve leaking water into No 6 bore. Well before 2pm with a little help from me, he had the Head sitting on the aft deck and the good news the cylinder block appeared to be undamaged.
The local Volvo agent duly arrived and looked in disbelief at the head sitting on the aft deck. he agreed to arrange for the renewing of all injector sleeves and for the lapping of the valves and hoped to have the head back to us on Monday 16th.
In the meantime we enjoyed our enforced stay at Maccinagio and celebrated my birthday with a little help from my friends in the tank and a couple of bottles of wine.
During our enforced stay at Maccinagio our neighbours were Derek and Thea, which made the time more enjoyable
Derek and Thea leaving us on the 16th June!!
The head came back on Tuesday morning the 17th and Tony with a little help from his friends had all complete by 1400 on the 19th June
We were underway again at 1554 on the 19th June heading for Saint Florent.
We have been watching this trip boat go in and out of the harbour for the last 10 days
Interesting boat with a sail!!
We had a lovely evening at a Resturant on the front with Derek and Thea from ‘Pilgrim 4’, the next morning we left Saint Florent at 1020.
Derek and Thea had left earlier and we eventually caught up with them 20 miles on at 1240 off La Pietra ille Rouse we arrived at Calvi at 1353 having covered 29.7 miles
As we passed La Pietra ille Rouse we noticed the ferry appearing to hide behing the Rock
Having to make up time we left Calvi the following morning the 21st June at 0654
Passing The Ille de Garganellu at 0908
Capo Rosso
That’s a ppretty English Girl passing us doing a steady 10 knots according to my radar
Approaching Ajjaccio Bay at 1245
Approaching Ajaccio were we arrived at 1335 having covered 57.8 miles. we stayed for 2 nights. We had to moor at the town quay where there were no mooring lines so we duly dropped an anchor with a buoy and motored towards the quay and tied up the first time we had to do this.
During our stay we did some sight seeing and no guesses for who this a well known Corsican lad
Quite a Monument
We met some American’s off this cruise ship during our stay in Ajaccio, we said we were cruising too!!
On the second night persons on known came on board around 2am and threw our bow lines into the harbour another new experience! the noise of them getting off must have woken me as when I investigated I found we had drifted off attached by the anchor and power cable with which I managed to gently get us back to the quay and tie up.
The next morning I reported the incident to the Captainerie.
We left Ajaccio at 0906 on the 23rd June heading for Propriano still in good conditions which we had enjoyed since leaving Maccinagio.
We arrived at Propriano at 14.30 having covered 28.6 miles
When we left propriano at 0652 on the 23rd June The Car Ferry Scandola was in dock the ferry runs between Propriano in Corsica and Porto Torres in Sardinia. By 0844 we had covered 15.4 miles and were entering the Bonifacio Straits with a strenthening westerly wind which meant we were being blown up the straits instead of across so instead of crossing at 90 degrees we ended up crossing at 45 degrees and as soon as we had some shelter made our way back down the Sardinian coast.
On the 3rd Sptember 2008 we reurned to Algherro
We left Fertilla on the morning of the 4th September and made the short crossing to Alghero, returning to Aquatica Marina
We enjoyed our stay at Alghero and commenced the 2nd half of our cruise to the West Coast of Italy. We left Alghero at 0839 on the 7th September; initially our aim was to reach Stintino. The first 7 miles to Cape Caccia was over calm seas but the sea became increasingly rough as we went around the Cape at 0947. The cliffs here are very high and the waves were hitting the cliffs and coming back out, leading to confused seas
By 1030 we getting back out to more open sea and the sea settled. We passed D’Argentiera at 1115 and half way to Scoglietta the wind increased to 20 knots on the nose and we had 1.5 metre waves, by the time we reached Scoglietta at 1304 the waves were less
Scoglietta Rocks
We were pleased to escape at 1326 into the calm seas of the Fornelli Passage and the beautiful nature reserve around Island Piana, we met a regatta coming the other way and somebody forgot to tell the speed boats that there is a 5 Knot speed limit in the nature reserve.
At 1355 having reached much calmer waters we set course for Isola Rosso about 29 miles away, where we arrived at 1730. Marina Isola Rossa is just behind the island and we had covered 64 miles
At 0930 the next morning we set off hoping to reach Porto Vecchia however conditions were deteriorating as we got closer to the funnel of the Bonifacio Straits and the 1st Mate who must be obeyed was recommending a change of destination so we changed course for Bonifacio. As we approached the French part of the Bonifacio Straits the wind increased to 25 – 30 knots with 2 metre waves, in order to keep a course across the waves of about 40 degrees we closed with the Corsican coast hoping to gain shelter, but the closer we came to the coast the waves just changed direction as the wind and waves funnelled through the straits, however we were eventually able to change course and had the benefit of a following sea that literally blew us into Bonifacio where we arrived at 1330 having covered 27 miles
While we were at Bonifacio the sailing ship Baden Powell created a lot of interest but we understand it is run by an Adventure Holiday Company and has no connection with the Scout movement.
On the 10th September we once again set off at 1000 to reach Porto Vecchio this time in calm sea’s as decreed by the 1st Mate. As we left Bonifacio we passed the Sailing Cruise Ship ‘Sea Cloud 2’ which we saw in Mahon in May
We passed Cabo Perunado at 10.30 and Punta De Sperero at 1049, 17 miles later we reached Ille Petricaggiosa at 1223 and passed on the inside of the Roches de Chippino at 1250 and made the 2 mile approach to Poto Vecchia where we arrived at 1320 having covered 23 miles. We had arranged to meet our friends Derek and Thea on Pilgrim 4, we spent 2 days at Porto Vecchia and had 2 great meals, one in the Port and the other in the Old Town about 200 foot above to Port, great view
Pilgrim 4 left Porto Vecchia at around 7.30 and we left about 2 hours later on the 12th September bound for Port De Solenza passing Punta Di Benedetti at 0952 Punta San Cipranu at 1007. As we passed Ille De Pinorellu at 1035 we sighted Pilgrim 4. We arrived at Solenzara at 12 Noon and although the Fuel Marinero was refueling some Jet Ski’s he refused to refuel us, its lunchtime!!!
Ice Cream Parlour at Solenzara with Derek and Thea
I am here too
Last year it was motor boats on the rocks, this year its sailing boats, this sailing boat was near the entrance to Solenzara
Expecting bad weather we spent two days at Solenzara, leaving in a weather window at 0830 on the 15th September, once again Pilgrim 4 left 2 hours ahead bound for Port Toga Bastia. We passed Foce Di Tavignano near Aleria at 1045 and made radio contact with Pilgrim 4.
At 1354 we arrived at Punta Di Arco off Bastia airport which is south of the town and made radio contact with Pilgrim 4 who advised black clouds over Bastia and expected to make port by 1430.
We passed FS Clara berthed at oil terminal and started our approach to Bastia Port Toga at 1430 the rain started and soon the wind rose to gusting 35 knots, although waves were still moderate, as we approached the Port we tried to raise them by radio but no response, Pilgrim 4 did respond and Derek said he would be waiting by the fuel berth to help us.
The Entrance is narrow and had 1.5 metre waves going across it, we checked the entrance, lined up and made our approach, once inside, it was calm just windy, but Derek was their to help us and we safely moored, after which the fuel berth marinara turned up and wanted to move us. We stayed put and moved later that afternoon after the wind had dropped!!
We did a recce of Bastia from Port Toga with Derek and Thea and had an enjoyable Evening Meal at Bastia Porto Vieux. As a large Geant Supermarket was opposite Port Toga we did our shopping and stocked up Lace.
At 0812 on the 17th September we left Port Toga just behind Pilgrim 4 bound for Portoferrio on Isola d’Elba – Italy. Soon after this ferry left Bastia.
and then passed behind us.
Passing Derek and Thea on Pilgrim 4
Hello Derek and Thea
At 0950 this cargo ship passed astern of us and in front of Pilgrim 4. We sighted the West Coast of Italy at 1024.
At 1125 Dellman Bonny passed ½ mile astern of us.
Approaching Elbe
As we made our entrance to Portoferrio the ferry ‘Moby Love’ came out. We arrived at Portoferrio at 1400 having covered 40 miles.
For details of our stay on Elbe Click Here
We enjoyed our stay at Portoferrio, the only annoying part was that we had to keep going to the port office to extend our stay, having got fed up with this, we took advantage of improving weather and left at 0958 on the 20th September.
At 1014 we passed this ferry bound for Portoferrio
In good conditions we made Capo del Vito at 1049, once around the cape waves gradually increased and by the time we reached Ille De Topi they were about 1.5 metres and the wind had increased to 20 knots, giving uncomfortable conditions.
As we approached mainland Italy for the first time, the sea began to calm and we reached Scogli Porchetti at 1242.
Italian coast at 1330
We arrived at Marina Di San Rocco at 1425 having covered 32.2 miles.
San Rocco was a well run marina, even if it was 60 Euro’s a night. The highlight was finding a Broom 36 and its Italian Owners Sylvia and Guiseppe who were on board. We were to have some great times with them and they kindly spent two days showing us Rome. We have made provisional plans to cruise the Ionian Islands together in 2009.
At 0935 on the 21st September we reluctantly slipped our ropes taking advantage of good weather and headed in the direction of Rome via Riva Di Triano.
At 1157 off the Island of Giglio the Ferry ‘Isollo del Giglio’ passed in front of us.
We went around Promontano Argentario at 1230.
Passing the Port of Civitavecchia
We arrived at Riva Di Triano at 1700 having covered 55 miles.
With continuing good weather we left the next morning at 0910, close to Rome we sighted Dolphins and headed up the River Tever (Tiber) at 1320 having covered 27 miles
Oh dear
We pottered up the river to the Road Bridge. Bruno and Eva who we had met in Mallorca last year told us about the Marina Inivitive Nautiche and Cesare, the owner, we pottered partly back down the river then decided to go under the bridge just clearance was 5.5 metres aprox, eventually we foond someone on a boat who unbeknown to us when and got Cesare. He helped us tie up and to our pleasure discovered the mooring fess were 30 Euors a night, before the Bridge, Cesare has Sailing Yacht moorings where Eva and Bruno stayed.
For details of our Adventures in Rome Click Here Soon
Moored on the River Tiber, natives were friendly. We reluctantly left Rome on the 28th September 2008 at 0940 and headed down river headed for the Tyrrhenian Sea and San Felice Circeo. Just past the island on the River on the North Bank we refueled.
Once back at sea, we spent 2 hours avoiding week end boaters, who seem to have no regard for ‘The International Rules for the avoidance of Collisions at Sea’, on a number of occasions as the stand on vessel I had to take avoiding measures. Hey there is a “Red Ensign” maybe there just saying hello!
However our first major encounter was off Anzio and Nettuno at 1339 when we suddenly noticed an Italian style fish farm 4 buoys each marking the corner and hundred of floats within, being our first encounter a bit bewildering until we sighted the outer buoys.
At 1700 we arrived at San Felice Circeo having covered 54 miles, an interesting entrance with about 2 metres of water in the channel, once inside, a very crowded marina, we spent the night on the fuel berth.
Next morning we left at 0916 bound for the Island of Ischia, we were roughly level with the Island of Stefano at 1315 and arrived at Ischia at 1550 having covered 48 miles, the harbour is used by many ferries, with an entrance just wide enough, we had to time our arrival and then wait for an outbound ferry to clear, a yacht behind had to twice abort his entrance. Having made it into the harbour we were greeted with its 130 Euros a night, after some negotiations we agreed at a 100 Euros and the advice that’s nothing wait till you get to Capri and anyway from 1st October we only charge 45 Euros a night!!
Notwithstanding this shock we enjoyed our two day stay and Valerie needed a rest to recover from a very sore throat. On the 2nd day we visited Naples by Ferry, 1 ½ hours and a fare of just 40 Euros for two return.
For details of our trip to Naples Click Here soon
On the 1st October at 0951 we set sail for the famous Island of Capri.
We were passed by the Hydrofoil ferry from Ischia to Capri.
Approaching the Island of Capri at 1144
This Ship passes in front of us headed for Naples
We arrived off Capri at 1200
At 1220 having covered 18 miles and another busy entrance, safely encountered, safely moored I made the trip to the office, 145 Euros a night!!! But they go down on the 15th October!!!
For details of our stay on Capri Click Here
Having stayed the obligatory night on Capri, by the way the island dies at night, the activity is mainly day trippers, who I guess can not or do not want to afford the Hotels
In the morning thet were busy transferring passengers from this cruise ship to Capri
We left port at 0940 passing the Cruise Ship ‘Costa Classica’ and headed for Salerno via the famous Capri Picture Postcard Isolo Firaglioni, which Gracie Fields Villa had a view of.
We had company
Gracie Field’s Villa was some where up there
We then met another Cruise Ship ‘Sea Dream Yacht Club’
However neither of these Cruise Ships could make the passage through the Arch of Isollo Faraglioni! Here we are having a look!
Getting Closer
Closer
Lace passed through at 1025.
We left Capri behind
We headed for the Isolo’s Lusgo off the Italian mainland which we passed at 1129
The Coastline between here and Salerno is breathtaking
Amalfi
We started our approach to Salerno at 1309 arriving at 1340 having covered 32 miles, because of a bad forecast and the wish to visit Pompei we booked for 3 days and were told 50 Euros a night, the agreed 45 Euros.
For details of our stay at Salerno and our trip to Pompei Click Here
The wind arrived on the 4th October, during the evening the cruise ship Costa Marina made a short visit, the following day we left for Acciaroli at 0955.
We past the Grimaldi Lines Ship ‘Grande Napoli’ at 1000 just outside Salerno.
Shortly afterwards we passed at 1012 ‘The Homesands’,
As we approached Punta Licosa the swell from the NW started to increase and we decided to give Licosa a wide berth as the sea becomes shallower atound this point, it also meant that the 7 mile approach to Acciaroli could be made with a following sea rather than on the beam.
We arrived at Acciaroli at 1440 having covered 34.6 miles and were pleasantly surprised that the Quay had Electric and Water and the scary stories in the Pilot about rocks coming over the harbour wall were out of date as the sea defences had been improved by increasing the height of the harbour wall and the width of the jetty, with Harbour shops, toilets and showers currently in the course of construction.
We left Acciaroli on the 6th October 2008 at 1127 and by 1253 were approaching Capo Palinicio
Capo Palinicio Lighthouse
Leaving Capo Palinicio at 1320
At 1325 this Robin landed on our aft deck after a rest for about 15 minutes it flew off as we approached Punta Iscoletti
Punta Iscoletti.
Approaching Maratea
We arrived at Maratea at 1545 having covered 35.4 miles and enjoyed an Evening meal at a Harbour restaurant.
Leaving Maretea at 1040 on the 7th October 2008 we headed for Cetraro, we followed the coast around Capo Di Bonifato at 1408 and set course across the bay to Cetraro where we arrived at 1435 having covered 30 miles.
Centraro is an undeveloped harbour and the Cruising Association Notes explain that you may be welcomed by a local Restaurant Owner, sure enough there was the ‘Yellow man’ (he wore a yellow jumper) who helped us moor, I obligingly asked him where we could find a local restaurant.
Later that afternoon a French yacht turned up and there again was the yellow man, who for 20 Euros took them to a local garage for diesel, we had lent them two of our containers for the purpose.
As a consequence, we were invited on board for a drink with Alan, Catherine and Alice all retired Doctors from Marseille.
We decided to all visit the restaurant and their sitting with a broad smile was the Yellow Man, the food was good, so we were all happy as you can see.
Next Morning we made an early start at 0710 on the 8th October 2008 and headed for Tropea which is 50 miles straight across the bay at a bearing of 181 degrees, like doing a real sea crossing, we had a flat sea all the way.
Tropea turned out to be a well run marina and we stayed 2 days twice climbing nearly 200 stairs to the village, which is a must, I also enjoyed swimming on the local sandy beach.
At 0845 on the10th October 2008 we headed for Reggio Calabria and the Messina Straits, we arrived off of Capo Vaticano at 0942 with a flat sea, the wind increased to 15 knots but as we approached the Messina Straits it flattened out and the wind dropped.
We passed the Safmarine Komati registered in London at 1103, which appeared to be waiting for a pilot.
As the Hanjin Amsterdam passed in front of us at 1142, we started our approach to the Messina Straits
The scene seemed almost magical, must be all those stories but then the wind increased to 25 knots on the nose and a chop was starting up. At 1228 a Ship of the Wan Hai Lines passed on our port side
Followed shortly afterwards by the MSA Giovanni, hey its busy here
That’s a big aerial
Not one Ferry
As we passed Villa San Giovanni the harbour used by Ferries, it was like crossing a busy road and the current increased to about 3 knots, never the less we arrived at Reggio Calabria at 1350.
On the 11th October 2008 at 0906 we left Reggio Calabria for Rocella Ionica we entered the Ionian Sea at Pto Di Pillaro at 1003
We arrived off Capo del Armi at 1036
Soon after the ‘Lanne’ passed us at 1040 heading for the Messina Straits
Passing Saline Joniche, not recommended by the Italian pilot, although we later met a French boat who said they had anchored in the harbour on four separate occasion without mishap.
We arrived off Capo Spartivento at 1300, the Cape lived up to its name with the wind increasing to 20 knots although the waves never exceeded a metre on the 30 mile crossing.
At 1456 we passed the ‘Annamar’ coming in the opposite direction. At 1550 we sighted dolphins but once again they were camera shy.
As the sea calmed as we approached Rocella Ionica we were treated to a great number of flying fish fleeing our wake but all we could capture was their wake. honestly if you look carefully at right of picture two tracks.
Approaching Rocella Ionica
Looks a windy place
With the odd wreck
We called up the port on VHF requesting permission to enter and arrived at Rocella Ionica at 1650 having covered 62 miles and booked in with the Guardia Costia. We enjoyed being moored on a finger pontoon but there was no electricity and no charge.
We left the next morning at 0819 bound for Le Castella arriving off Pta Stillo at 1005 and entered the Gulf of Squilliace and the 34 mile crossing to Le Castilla, anyway at least Valerie is still smiling!
That’s a big Tanker heading our way, good job he is about 3 miles off accoprding to the radar at 1330
Gulf of Squilliace kept to its name with us approaching Le Castilla with wind of up 25 knots, we arrived in the harbour at 1430 having covered 46 miles.
Once inside we could not find a suitable place to moor, eventually the owner of the glass bottom boat invited us the raft off, which we did. In the afternoon I enjoyed a swim in the bay by the castle, where we ate that evening in a restaurant overlooking the castle.
The next morning the 13th October the wind had dropped and we set off for Crotone at 0800
At 0830 we passed around the Capo Rizzuto and we entered Zone B of the Nature Reserve to avoid entering the non navigable Zone A we headed further out to sea. The wind started to increase and as we approached Capo Colonna at 0930 the wind was up to 25 knots and gusting 30 knots with waves on the nose around 2 metres.
As we rounded Capo Colonna the waves increased to around 3 metres, at one point we were climbing one of the larger waves when a dolphin came the other way down the wave surfing just under the surface, WOW. Luckily as we rounded the Cape the direction of the waves followed the coast around, allowing us to change course towards Crotone where we arrived slightly shaken but otherwise in tact at 1045